DASHTI, Ali (2019). Utilising Reuse and Recycling Strategies in Costume Design in Kuwait Theatres. Doctoral, Sheffield Hallam University. [Thesis]
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Dashti_2019_PhD_UtilisingReuse.pdf - Accepted Version
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Dashti_2019_PhD_UtilisingReuse.pdf - Accepted Version
Available under License Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives.
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Abstract
Kuwait does not currently make use of any methods for recycling textiles (Alsuilaili et al., 2014). This
fact, combined with high levels of textile waste, has resulted in significant ecological issues that demand
immediate attention (Alsuilaili et al., 2014). Reusing and recycling materials within the realms
of theatrical costume design and production is therefore extremely important (Jones et al., 2013). However,
in nations such as Kuwait, where the practice was commonplace prior to the Iraqi invasion, this
is no longer the case (Al-Ghareb, 1988). This qualitative study sought to investigate current practices
among Kuwaiti costumiers and then compare these to UK costumiers who provide an example of existing
sustainable (reusing and recycling) costume design practices. It aimed to investigate the attitudes
and perceptions of Kuwaiti costumiers towards reusing and recycling as ways of reducing textile waste.
In keeping with Beveridge’s (1968) framework, this thesis utilised exploratory and participatory modes
of primary research. Two different studies were conducted to gather primary data. First, a series of
semi-structured interviews were conducted with 13 UK and 13 Kuwaiti costumiers to elicit information
and opinions on the costume design process and on sustainability. Second, three workshops were conducted
with three Kuwait costumiers. Each workshop comprised three different design tasks: Level 1-
Redesigning; Level 2- Makeover of garments; and Level 3- Complete costume design from scratch. In
these tasks, Kuwaiti costumiers were asked to apply the different practices they employ when re-using
and re-cycling and to discuss their attitudes towards such methods. The three different tasks therefore
consisted of “talking and making”. A thematic analysis was then conducted to identify major themes
related to the 3Rs of sustainability: reduce, reuse, recycle (Lyngaas, 2017; Rinkesh, 2018), and the extent
to which Kuwaiti costumiers adhere to these practices. The findings from the interviews showed
that there was considerable divergence between the two sets of costumiers in their attitudes towards
sustainable practices. For instance, the key themes arising from the interviews from UK costumiers
were a robust understanding of costume design, advanced technical skills and creativity, a focus on
reuse and recycling and the skills and knowledge to implement these, and the use of long-term storage
techniques. In contrast, the key themes arising from the interviews with Kuwaiti costumiers were an
inadequate understanding of costume design, a preference for purchasing new costumes, a lack of skills
and knowledge regarding reuse and recycling, and costume skills required for storage. The findings
from the workshops confirmed that the Kuwait costumiers had very limited knowledge of sustainable
practices and, consequently, even less idea how to successfully apply them. However, they were enthusiastic
and keen to learn more. The findings have thus shed new light on the discrepancies between
the UK and Kuwait in the adoption of such practices and the potential barriers that exist regarding the
adoption of sustainable costume design practices in Kuwaiti theatre. This will help pave the way towards
developing approaches to promote sustainable costume design thinking and the use of reusable
and recyclable materials when making costumes in Kuwait theatre.
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