Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design : assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency

SEIFERT, Ludovic, ORTH, Dominic, BOULANGER, Jérémie, DOVGALECS, Vladislavs, HÉRAULT, Romain and DAVIDS, Keith (2014). Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design : assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency. Journal of applied biomechanics, 30 (5), 619-625.

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Official URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1123/JAB.2014-0052
Link to published version:: https://doi.org/10.1123/JAB.2014-0052
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    Abstract

    This study investigated a new performance indicator to assess climbing fluency (smoothness of the hip trajectory and orientation of a climber using normalized jerk coefficients) to explore effects of practice and hold design on performance. Eight experienced climbers completed four repetitions of two, 10-m high routes with similar difficulty levels, but varying in hold graspability (holds with one edge vs holds with two edges). An inertial measurement unit was attached to the hips of each climber to collect 3D acceleration and 3D orientation data to compute jerk coefficients. Results showed high correlations (r = .99, P < .05) between the normalized jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation. Results showed higher normalized jerk coefficients for the route with two graspable edges, perhaps due to more complex route finding and action regulation behaviors. This effect decreased with practice. Jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation could be a useful indicator of climbing fluency for coaches as its computation takes into account both spatial and temporal parameters (ie, changes in both climbing trajectory and time to travel this trajectory).

    Item Type: Article
    Research Institute, Centre or Group - Does NOT include content added after October 2018: Centre for Sports Engineering Research
    Identification Number: https://doi.org/10.1123/JAB.2014-0052
    Page Range: 619-625
    Depositing User: Hilary Ridgway
    Date Deposited: 18 Nov 2014 12:31
    Last Modified: 08 Oct 2018 14:34
    URI: http://shura.shu.ac.uk/id/eprint/8793

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