Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

GILES, David, BARNES, Kimberly, TAYLOR, Nicola, CHIDLEY, Corinna, CHIDLEY, Joel, MITCHELL, James, TORR, Oliver, GIBSON-SMITH, Edward and ESPAÑA-ROMERO, Vanesa (2021). Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers. Journal of sports sciences, 39 (1), 48-56.

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Abstract

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R² = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R² = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

Item Type:	Article
Uncontrolled Keywords:	Leg; Arm; Fingers; Humans; Body Mass Index; Body Size; Body Height; Skinfold Thickness; Hand Strength; Linear Models; Age Factors; Time Factors; Mountaineering; Adult; Female; Muscle Strength; Athletic Performance; Athletes; Self Report; Sport climbing; body composition; bouldering; finger strength; performance; power slap; Adult; Age Factors; Arm; Athletes; Athletic Performance; Body Height; Body Mass Index; Body Size; Female; Fingers; Hand Strength; Humans; Leg; Linear Models; Mountaineering; Muscle Strength; Self Report; Skinfold Thickness; Time Factors; 1106 Human Movement and Sports Sciences; 1302 Curriculum and Pedagogy; Sport Sciences; 3202 Clinical sciences; 4207 Sports science and exercise; 5201 Applied and developmental psychology
Identification Number:	https://doi.org/10.1080/02640414.2020.1804784
Page Range:	48-56
SWORD Depositor:	Symplectic Elements
Depositing User:	Symplectic Elements
Date Deposited:	08 Apr 2024 13:51
Last Modified:	08 Apr 2024 14:00
URI:	https://shura.shu.ac.uk/id/eprint/33188

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