Nutritional considerations for bouldering

SMITH, Edward, STOREY, Ryan and RANCHORDAS, Mayur (2017). Nutritional considerations for bouldering. International Journal of Sport Nutrition & Exercise Metabolism, 27 (4), 314-324.

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Official URL: http://journals.humankinetics.com/doi/abs/10.1123/...
Link to published version:: 10.1123/ijsnem.2017-0043

Abstract

Bouldering competitions are held up to International level and governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing. Bouldering has been selected to feature at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, however, physiological qualities and nutritional requirements to optimise performance remain inadequately defined due to large gaps in the literature. The primary goals of training include optimising the capacity of the anaerobic energy systems and developing sport-specific strength, with emphasis on the isometric function of the forearm flexors responsible for grip. Bouldering athletes typically possess a lean physique, similar to the characteristics of sport climbers with reported body fat values of 6-12%. Athletes strive for a low body weight to improve power to weight ratio and limit the load on the extremities. Specialised nutritional support is uncommon and poor nutritional practices such as chronic carbohydrate restriction are prevalent, compromising the health of the athletes. The high intensity nature of bouldering demands a focus on adequate carbohydrate availability. Protein intake and timing should be structured to maximise muscle protein synthesis and recovery, with the literature suggesting 0.25-0.3 g/kg in 3-4 hour intervals. Supplementing with creatine and β-alanine may provide some benefit by augmenting the capacity of the anaerobic systems. Boulderers are encouraged to seek advice from nutrition experts to enhance performance, particularly important when weight loss is the desired outcome. Further research is warranted across all nutritional aspects of bouldering which is summarised in this review.

Item Type: Article
Research Institute, Centre or Group: Materials and Engineering Research Institute > Thin Films Research Centre > Nanotechnology Centre for PVD Research
Identification Number: 10.1123/ijsnem.2017-0043
Depositing User: Mayur Ranchordas
Date Deposited: 12 Apr 2017 12:58
Last Modified: 14 Aug 2017 16:13
URI: http://shura.shu.ac.uk/id/eprint/15532

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