Hold design supports learning and transfer of climbing fluency

ORTH, Dominic, DAVIDS, Keith and SEIFERT, Ludovic (2015). Hold design supports learning and transfer of climbing fluency. Sports Technology, 7 (3-4), 159-165.

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Official URL: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1934618...
Link to published version:: 10.1080/19346182.2014.968167


Being a discipline with a broad range of genres, rock climbing is an activity where participants seek to generalize the skills they learn in different performance contexts. A training strategy for achieving skill transfer was explored in a group of experienced climbers. Specifically, we tested the effect of practising on three routes, each of the same difficulty, but where handholds supported opportunities for using either a single technical action or multiple actions. Transfer of climbing fluidity in terms of the geometric index of entropy (GIE) of the hip trajectory was then assessed. We expected that learning would be induced on the route where multiple actions were usable. Results revealed that GIE showed a learning effect only when practice was undertaken on a route designed with multiple graspable edges. Practice on the multi-functional route best explains why the participants' successfully generalized climbing fluency under transfer conditions.

Item Type: Article
Research Institute, Centre or Group: Centre for Sports Engineering Research
Identification Number: 10.1080/19346182.2014.968167
Depositing User: Margaret Boot
Date Deposited: 12 Aug 2016 13:13
Last Modified: 12 Aug 2016 13:13
URI: http://shura.shu.ac.uk/id/eprint/12959

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