Hold design supports learning and transfer of climbing fluency

ORTH, Dominic, DAVIDS, Keith and SEIFERT, Ludovic (2015). Hold design supports learning and transfer of climbing fluency. Sports Technology, 7 (3-4), 159-165.

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Official URL: http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1934618...
Link to published version:: https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968167
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    Being a discipline with a broad range of genres, rock climbing is an activity where participants seek to generalize the skills they learn in different performance contexts. A training strategy for achieving skill transfer was explored in a group of experienced climbers. Specifically, we tested the effect of practising on three routes, each of the same difficulty, but where handholds supported opportunities for using either a single technical action or multiple actions. Transfer of climbing fluidity in terms of the geometric index of entropy (GIE) of the hip trajectory was then assessed. We expected that learning would be induced on the route where multiple actions were usable. Results revealed that GIE showed a learning effect only when practice was undertaken on a route designed with multiple graspable edges. Practice on the multi-functional route best explains why the participants' successfully generalized climbing fluency under transfer conditions.

    Item Type: Article
    Research Institute, Centre or Group - Does NOT include content added after October 2018: Centre for Sports Engineering Research
    Identification Number: https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2014.968167
    Page Range: 159-165
    Depositing User: Margaret Boot
    Date Deposited: 12 Aug 2016 13:13
    Last Modified: 18 Mar 2021 18:07
    URI: https://shura.shu.ac.uk/id/eprint/12959

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