ORTH, Dominic, DAVIDS, Keith and SEIFERT, Ludovic (2014). Hold design supports learning and transfer of climbing fluency. Sports Technology, 7 (3-4), 159-165.
Orth_et_al_IRCRC_abstract_Hold_design_supports_transfer_of_climbing_fluidity_subUPLOAD.pdf - Accepted Version
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Being a discipline with a broad range of genres, rock climbing is an activity where participants seek to generalize the skills they learn in different performance contexts. A training strategy for achieving skill transfer was explored in a group of experienced climbers. Specifically, we tested the effect of practising on three routes, each of the same difficulty, but where handholds supported opportunities for using either a single technical action or multiple actions. Transfer of climbing fluidity in terms of the geometric index of entropy (GIE) of the hip trajectory was then assessed. We expected that learning would be induced on the route where multiple actions were usable. Results revealed that GIE showed a learning effect only when practice was undertaken on a route designed with multiple graspable edges. Practice on the multi-functional route best explains why the participants' successfully generalized climbing fluency under transfer conditions.
Special Issue: Rock Climbing
Published online: 28 Apr 2015
|Research Institute, Centre or Group:||Centre for Sports Engineering Research|
|Depositing User:||Carole Harris|
|Date Deposited:||09 Jun 2015 14:39|
|Last Modified:||19 Oct 2016 23:17|
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